Kenya Faces Environmental Fallout from Second-Hand Clothing Surge

Edited By : Tendai Zola

Every month, nearly 500 containers stuffed with second-hand clothing arrive in Kenya, offloaded at Mombasa port and destined for bustling markets like Gikomba in Nairobi. These clothes—often from Europe and the United States—flood the East African nation as part of a massive, opaque second-hand trade, where the true cost is increasingly measured in environmental damage.

At dawn, trucks rumble through Nairobi’s chaotic streets, heading for Gikomba Market. As soon as they park, workers unload bulky bales of clothing—known locally as mitumba—onto their heads and disappear into the maze of tin-roofed stalls. Spanning five hectares, Gikomba is a sprawling labyrinth, home to thousands of vendors offering everything from shoes and trousers to undergarments.

This vast ecosystem of resale began in the mid-20th century, when local railway workers purchased used goods from Asian traders. In 1952, the government formalized the market’s boundaries, and it has since grown into the largest second-hand clothing market in East Africa.

What seems like a haven for bargain-hunters masks a troubling reality: Kenya has become a dumping ground for the fast fashion industry. Many of the clothes delivered are too worn, stained, or damaged to be resold, turning large portions of these imports into instant waste. Sorting through the bales is now a critical task for local traders, who separate the sellable pieces from textile trash.

This influx has prompted concern among environmentalists and sparked grassroots initiatives. Local organizations are now advocating for better regulations, recycling programs, and even bans on the import of certain types of used clothing to stem the tide of textile pollution.

While second-hand markets continue to provide jobs and affordable clothing to millions, the long-term sustainability of this trade is increasingly under scrutiny. As global fashion brands churn out more disposable clothing, nations like Kenya are left to bear the burden—both economically and ecologically.