How Nigerians Reinvented an Italian Tinned Tomato Brand

Edited By: Widad WAHBI

In the bustling food markets of Lagos, a shopper points to a bowl of rice and asks, “How much for a derica?” The trader immediately knows what she means: a scoop measured with an old tomato paste tin.

The word “derica” has become more than a brand name. Across Lagos, Port Harcourt, and Enugu, it is a unit of measurement — a lasting cultural footprint of the once-ubiquitous De Rica tomato paste.

In the 1970s and 80s, De Rica tomato paste was everywhere in Nigeria. So common were its 400g tins that market vendors began recycling them to measure rice, beans, and melon seeds. Over time, “a derica” became shorthand for a scoop of dry goods.

Food writer Yemisi Aribisala recalls how her grandparents used the brand: “De Rica was everywhere. Everyone considered it the best tomato paste.”

This practice wasn’t unique. Nigerians also adopted Blue Band margarine tubs as units of “butter,” and cigarette tins as “cups.” Vendors preferred these improvised measures because proper weighing scales were costly, while empty tins were free.

By the late 2010s, De Rica cans had all but disappeared. In 2017, Nigeria banned tomato paste imports to encourage local farming. Brands shifted to cheaper plastic sachets, and the iconic De Rica tin was gone from shelves.

“Government banned it,” explains Mushin market trader Agatha Okonkwo, who remembers cooking with De Rica since the 1960s. “There was a time Nigerians said De Rica when they meant tomato paste. That time has passed.”

Today, cheaper brands like Sonia dominate, while Gino is the most popular. De Rica survives in smaller sachets but is no longer a leader. Still, its name lives on every time a trader sells a derica of rice.

Despite its decline, De Rica retains loyal fans. Abuja chef Victor Moses insists the paste gives his jollof rice its signature smoky flavor and vibrant red color. Meanwhile, Nigerians abroad keep demand alive in Europe. “Nigerians are brand conscious,” says Dutch importer Tim Szejnoga. “They remain loyal to one brand their entire lives.”

Though the tins may no longer be found in Nigerian kitchens, the brand has been immortalized in language, markets, and memory. For many Nigerians, De Rica is no longer just tomato paste — it is a cultural measure of daily life.